Paddle For Peace
Miravalle, Colombia
Rafting the upper canyons of El Rio Pato.
Armed guards stand watch as we load our boats at the edge of the Rio Pato. They are the lingering ghosts of one of the world's longest running insurgencies. This dense rainforest served as home to the former headquarters for the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC).
The location is an obvious choice for a guerrilla movement. The village of Miravalle sits where the edge of Amazonia meets the foothills of the Andes. It is surrounded by mountains to all sides with only one road in. The whitewater of the Pato serving as the last barricade.
The Rio Pato is a tributary to the Amazon, and the former frontline of a battleground between the FARC and Colombian government. Now it serves as a means of peace and reintegration for a society that was known for kidnapping, violence, and drug trafficking. Through a program fostered by the United Nations and the leadership of Rafa Gallo — founder of the International Rafting Federation and owner of a Costa Rican rafting outfit — former FARC soldiers have laid down their arms in exchange for rafting paddles. They are taking the chance to make this warzone turned Territorial Spaces for Training and Reincorporation a destination for ecotourism.
Only five years into Colombia’s peace accord, I found myself climbing into this region, the San Vicente del Caguán river valley, with a group of conservationists, local officials, UN ambassadors, as well as friends and family of Rafa Gallo. Gallo passed away in March 2021. To honor his legacy, and celebrate the new life of a river that once was dark, the people of the Rio Pato hosted an event that concisely defines a collective effort, Remando por la Paz.
“I have been to numerous countries with backgrounds of armed conflicts. All those times I have seen how rivers have the power to get people together. Rafting has been a symbol of peace, friendship and teamwork. It is amazing to see ex-combatants convinced of their role in building peace. It is amazing to see them wanting to learn more about nature, and it is amazing to see this stunning landscape that only few people know.” - Rafa Gallo
Roberto Gallo, son of Rafa Gallo, overlooks El Rio Pato in Miravalle, Colombia.
Military outposts that stand as a reminder of a 52 year conflict throughout Colombia.
The Museum of Historical Memory gives a glimpse of what life was like in Miravalle during wartimes.
The mountainous terrain surrounding the former headquarters of the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia, still bares scars from bombings.
Exploring waterfalls around the San Vicente del Caguán region of Colombia.
Many hands make light work as Colombian and Costa Rican raft guides load boats for the day.
Universal views of whitewater paddling.
Colombian guards keep vigilant in open areas to protect former FARC members who’s lives are still in danger under a young and fragile peace treaty.
River guide Hermides "Profe" Linares, gives his safety speech to guests before putting on the river.
Shamanic blessing for the spirit of Rafa Gallo and the future of Rio Pato.
Upstream view of the rafters coming downstream.
Navigating the Class III-IV rapids of El Rio Pato.
Armed guards standing watch.
Shuttle rides from take out.
Murals are sprinkled throughout the village, a welcoming sign for the new industry of ecotourism in a former war zone.
Sunset in the foothill of the Andes.